Edinburgh

Scotland's capital captivates many people at first sight, with Edinburgh Castle looming from the crags of an ancient volcano, and Georgian and Victorian architecture forming a skyline that looks locked in the past. But this is a modern, cosmopolitan city, and the new Scottish Parliament Building says so loud and clear.

Edinburgh has everything you'd expect from a capital and should not be missed: numerous iconic sights (even more than Glasgow, its rival 50 miles to the west, offers), lovely cobbled streets, and plenty of first-class restaurants. However, as with any major city there are tradeoffs: lodging, food, and even pub prices are high; there's a lot of traffic and too many tourists, particularly in August during the Edinburgh International Festival.

Avoid the throngs and head for the museums (the Royal Museum, Museum of Scotland, and National Gallery of Scotland are impressive), the Royal Botanical Gardens, or Arthur's Seat, the small mountain with spectacular views. Not only are these sites free, they're all within the city center or within walking distance of it. Another option for escaping the crowds is to leave the city altogether. The Lothians—West Lothian, East Lothian, and Midlothian—beckon Edinburghers as well as visitors with quick getaways to coastal towns, quiet beaches, ancient chapels (including Rosslyn Chapel, mentioned in The Da Vinci Code) and castles.

Less »