South of Port Charlotte, the A847 continues along the wild landscape of the Rhinns of Islay. The road ends at Portnahaven and its twin, Port Wemyss, where pretty white cottages built in a crescent around the headland belie the harsh lives of the fisher families who live and work here. Return to Port Charlotte via the bleak, unclassified road that loops north and east, passing by the recumbent stone circle at Coultoon and the ruined chapel at Kilchiaran along the way. The strange whooping sound you may hear as you turn away from Portnahaven comes from Scotland's first wave-powered generator, sucking and blowing as it supplies electricity for both villages. It's well worth the climb down to the shore to see it in action.