They celebrate New Year's Eve every night here, and whatever season and the weather, you get the full holiday package, complete with decorated Christmas tree, the Russian version of Santa Claus and his granddaughter, champagne, and a dance party. An exhaustive collection of season's greetings recordings delivered by Soviet and Russian leaders is broadcast and mocked throughout the night. This ritual has become one of St. Petersburg's most memorable nights out. The food and beer is good and inexpensive, and the droll staff is dressed in white rabbit costumes. Each table has a unique design. Be sure to get there and fill your glass before midnight. Purga's clone next door throws wedding parties with the same regularity and similarly comic bent.