Chic or pretentious, it's your call, but Onegin exemplifies the latest in St. Petersburg's dining and social scene, with the restaurant turning into an exclusive dance club late at night. Seeing and being seen are the main reasons to come, but it also happens to have an outstanding kitchen. The duck, fish, and arugula salad (a rare find in this city) are flavorful, but pricey, as are most of the dishes. The design of this underground refuge is a modern twist on Imperial St. Petersburg style, down to the ceiling reliefs finessed by the artisans who keep the Hermitage's baroque details looking spectacular. It all feels like a private party at an aristocratic Russian's home.
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