Side Trips from Moscow
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1. Monastery of St. Yefim
The tall brick walls and 12 towers of this monastery, completed in 1350, have often been the cinematic stand-in for the Moscow Kremlin. The main church, the 16th-century Church of the Transfiguration of the Savior, is distinctive for its extremely pointed onion domes and its New Testament frescoes by Gury Nikitin and Sila Slavin, 17th-century painters from the city of Kostroma. A museum in the monastery is devoted to their lives and work. The church also houses the tomb containing the remains of Dmitri Pozharsky, one of the resistance leaders against the Polish invaders in the Time of Troubles. Adjoining the church is a single-dome nave church, which is actually the original Church of the Transfiguration; it was built in 1509, constructed over the grave of St. Yefim, the monastery's founder; its bells chime melodically every hour on the hour. The adjacent 16th-century Church of the Assumption (Uspenskaya Tserkov) is one of the earliest examples of tent-roof architecture in Russia. In the middle of the 18th century, part of the monastery became a place for "deranged criminals," many of whom were actually political prisoners. The prison and hospital are along the north wall and closed to visitors.
Suzdal, Vladimir, 601293, Russia4922-324263Sight Details
Rate Includes: Monastery grounds 70R, with museums 350R, Tues.–Sun. 10–6; closed last Thurs. of month -
2. Suzdal kremlin
The dominant monument in the kremlin, which may have first been built in the 10th century and sits on an earthen rampart with the Kamenka River flowing around all but the east side, is the mid-13th-century Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin (Sobor Rozhdestva Bogorodnitsy), topped by deep-blue cupolas festooned with golden stars. Original limestone carvings can still be found on its corners and on its facade, and tts exquisite bronze entry doors are the oldest such doors in Russia, from the 13th century. Inside, the brilliant and colorful frescoes dating from the 1230s and 1630s are without compare. The long, white, L-shaped three-story building that the cathedral towers over is the Archbishop's Chambers. Behind its broad windows you'll find the superb "cross chamber" (named for its shape), which is a large hall without any supporting pillars—the first hall of its type in all Russia. The kremlin also holds museums of antique books and art.
Suzdal, Vladimir, 601260, Russia49231-20–937Sight Details
Rate Includes: 250R, Wed.–Sun. 10–6; closed last Fri. of month -
3. Churches of St. Lazarus and St. Antipy
Walking north from the kremlin on ulitsa Lenina, you'll pass several churches on your left and the pillared trading arcades. Just beyond the arcades are the beautiful Churches of St. Lazarus and St. Antipy, their colorful bell tower topping the unique, concave tent-roof design. This ensemble is a good example of Russian church architecture, where a summer church (St. Lazarus, with the shapely onion domes, built in 1667) adjoins a smaller, easier-to-heat, and more modest winter church (St. Antipy, built in 1745).
Suzdal, Vladimir, 601293, RussiaNo phoneSight Details
Rate Includes: Free -
4. Convent of the Intercession
In addition to being a religious institution, this convent was also a place for political incarcerations. Basil III divorced his wife Solomonia in 1525 and banished her here when she failed to produce a male heir. Basil may have chosen this monastery because, in 1514, he had commissioned the splendid octagonal, three-dome cathedral in the complex as supplication for a male heir. Local legend has it that Solomonia subsequently gave birth to a boy and then staged the child's death to hide him from Basil. Basil subsequently married Yelena Glinskaya, who did give him an heir: Ivan IV, who would be known as "the Terrible." Ivan, in turn, banished his wife Anna here. And when Peter the Great, after returning from Europe in 1698, finally decided that he wanted to rid himself of his wife, Yevdokia, he forced her to take the veil and live out the rest of her life in this convent. A fine view of the monastery can be had from across the river, from the sparse remains of the Alexander Nevsky monastery. The convent sits across the Kamenka River from Spaso Yefimsky, in an oxbow bend of the river. To get here, turn east off ulitsa Lenina onto ulitsa Stromynka, and then go north on Pokrovskaya ulitsa.
76 ul. Pokrovskaya, Suzdal, Vladimir, 601293, Russia49231-20609Sight Details
Rate Includes: Free, Daily 7–7 -
5. Monastery of the Feast of the Deposition of the Robe
Religious Building/Site/ShrineRising 236 feet high, the bell tower in the Monastery of the Feast of the Deposition of the Robe complex is the tallest building in Suzdal. It was built by local residents in 1819 to commemorate Russia's victory over Napoléon.
1 ul. Lenina, Suzdal, Vladimir, 601293, Russia -
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6. Museum of Wooden Architecture
These wooden buildings have been moved here from throughout the region and restored. Of particular interest is the ornate Church of the Transfiguration, dating from 1756; it was moved here from the village of Kozlyatievo. The buildings can be viewed from the outside any time of year, but from the inside only from May to October.
Suzdal, Vladimir, 601293, Russia49231-20784Sight Details
Rate Includes: 200R, May–Oct., Thurs.–Tues. 9–7; Nov.–Apr., daily 9–4
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