Shopping in Moscow

Gone are the Cold War images of long lines and empty shelves, the uneven and unpredictable distribution of goods. These days, at least in Moscow, you can generally find most items you need, albeit in a more piecemeal way than at home. You will not go hungry or unclothed should you lose your shirt at one of Moscow's casinos. In fact, you'll find opportunities to buy something any which way you turn.

The proliferation of new stores is matched only by an escalation in prices. Stores can be roughly divided into two types: Western-style and Russian-style, though this differentiation is fast transforming into one of nice versus not-as-nice, as the Russian-owned shops upgrade their service and presentation. There's an ever-changing array of kiosks, tabletops, and wooden stalls, combined with nicer, underground glassware boutiques and stores. The Western-style stores are more likely to carry familiar brands from the United States and Europe, at high prices. Russian-owned establishments tend to stock a mix of local and imported products.

The high prices of consumer goods means it makes sense economically only to shop for souvenirs. If your schedule permits, it's interesting to browse in the shops that are frequented by locals, and it's a great way to take the pulse of a place, especially one in flux.

Keep in mind that you're forbidden to take some items out of the country. Customs regulations are vague and seem to change constantly, contingent upon who is checking your luggage. The law basically disallows the export of anything of "cultural value to the Russian nation." In practical terms, this means that anything older than 30 to 40 years is not allowed out without special permission from the Ministry of Culture or its local agent; the item will be confiscated at the border if you lack the necessary papers. Anything prerevolutionary is simply not let out at all. If you're buying paintings or art objects, it's important to consult with the seller regarding the proper documentation of sale for export. Keep receipts of your purchases.

Exercise caution when shopping. You'll stand out no matter what you do, and there are pickpocket and mugging rings, often operating in small bands. Don't be an easy target: don't flash your money and don't stop if you encounter bands of muggers. Swinging your arms or handbag and getting vocal often works to rout them.

Hours of operation can be capricious, but the general rule is Monday through Saturday 10 to 7 (occasionally closing for an hour sometime between 1 and 3). Food stores may open an hour earlier, and department stores may remain open later, with additional hours on Sunday (11 to 6). Most of the newer shopping malls stay open daily from 10 or 11 to 9 or 10.

Historically, the main shopping districts of Moscow have been concentrated in the city center, along Tverskaya ulitsa and Novy Arbat. Luxury designer stores like Cerutti, Versace, Hermès, Gucci, Armani, and Prada have settled along pedestrianized Stoleshnikov pereulok, Kuznetsky Most, and Tretyakovsky proyezd. On Kutuzovsky prospekt, off Novy Arbat, you'll find Dolce & Gabbana, Donna Karan, and Fendi boutiques. Along with Stary Arbat, which has been particularly spruced up for the tourist trade, these streets are your best bets. If you're willing to venture into distant regions outside the city, however, a brave new world of shopping awaits in Russia.

Caviar in Russia? Who can resist? Especially when you can buy it at the bargain rates now being offered in Moscow. Unlike vodkas, there are few concerns about counterfeiting, and you can find authentic sturgeon caviar in any nice Russian food store. Expect to pay about $300 per kilo (nearly 3 pounds) of black caviar—it's best to purchase those already packed in export jars.

Buying liquor—especially vodka—in Russia is a de rigueur activity fraught with danger. Alcohol counterfeiting is a big problem; according to various estimates, illegally produced vodka accounts for 40% to 70% of what is available on the market. If you don't follow safe buying practices, you could end up with a severe case of alcohol poisoning. Your best bet on price and safety is to buy at outlet shops of vodka distilleries, such as Cristall, or at supermarkets. Note that every bottle of vodka sold in Russia must bear a white excise stamp, glued over the cap, and those sold in Moscow must also bear a bar-code stamp.

Western-style supermarkets are rapidly squeezing Soviet-style food stores such as bakeries out of business. Supermarket bakery counters have become the only options for bread in downtown Moscow. Some supermarkets have their own bakeries, others sell bread brought from one of the city's "khlebozavody" or bakeries. You'll still get good Russian bread for less than 20 rubles a loaf. Podmoskovny and nareznoi sell for about 15 rubles and are lighter than the white bread generally associated with Russia. Varieties of black rye bread (borodinsky and khamovnichesky) are the tastiest, and they still won't put you out more than 25 rubles. Branches of Sedmoi Kontinent and Perekryostok, often open 24 hours, have proliferated like underbrush below the high-rise canopies of Moscow's suburbs. Sedmoi Kontinent supermarkets offer probably the best borodinsky bread in town and great Ciabatta bread, both plain and with onions and herbs. The delicious and hugely popular Armenian lavash—soft, thin flatbread—is made with flour and water.

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