Cheap and bohemian, Pirogi na Nikolskoy is part of the O.G.I. chain of inexpensive restaurant-clubs popular among the students, the hip, and those who never grow old. The chain is open 24 hours and usually has a small, upmarket bookshop attached. This cellar location is simple but cheerful. Don't expect great service or a smoke-free zone but do expect a good atmosphere, decent food—the beef stroganoff is worth a try—and a pleasant surprise when you get the bill. The best O.G.I. for location is this one at the end of Tretyakovsky Proyezd, a fine juxtaposition as it's one of Moscow's most expensive streets, a few hundred yards from the Kremlin.
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