Soccer in Moscow

Footage of Russian teenagers rioting outside the Kremlin after Russia lost to Japan in the 2002 World Cup was a reminder to the world of how seriously this country takes its soccer (futbol). As a general rule, Russian soccer teams fare poorly in international events, but that doesn't seem to bother Russia's die-hard fans. Riots were once common at some of Moscow's larger stadiums, but an overwhelming police presence and the prohibition of alcohol sales at nearby stores have managed to quell the problem. Still, before games, neighborhoods surrounding the stadiums are often full of hooligans looking for any excuse for a fight. The season usually runs from early spring to late fall. During the off-season, Duma deputies and other politicians hold games that tend to be more comedic and less crowded. Moscow mayor Yuri Luzhkov is a huge fan and has been known to hold matches with players from city hall. You can buy tickets for the matches outside the stadiums or at the teatralnaya kassa.

Old and dilapidated but still in working order, Dinamo (36 Leningradskoe shosse, Northern Outskirts. 495/612-7092 or 495/612-3132. Metro: Dinamo) is a favorite stadium for matches between Duma deputies and city hall officials. Lokomotiv (125a Bolshaya Cherkizovskaya, Eastern Outskirts. 495/161-4283. Metro: Cherkizovskaya), Moscow's newest and largest stadium, is probably the most comfortable place to watch a soccer match. Luzhniki (24 Luzhnetskaya nab., Southern Outskirts. 495/785-9717 main number; 495/637-0802; 495/637-0435. Metro: Sportivnaya), the city's flagship stadium and home of the Spartak, is fully up to European standards. It sometimes hosts international matches.