Chef Rui Paula won national fame with reinventions of traditional dishes at his restaurant DOC, upriver on the Douro. Now he's thrilling Porto foodies in this elegant refitted palace. There's a mezzanine for smokers, and long communal tables downstairs, from which you can watch the starters being prepared. Mains include new takes on bacalhau com broa (codfish with cornbread) and tripas (tripe)—if you've tried this Porto dish elsewhere, you'll be amazed
by Paula's ultralight version. There are vegetarian dishes, a wide selection of wines by the bottle (from €17) or glass, and desserts featuring rural flavors such as quince and chestnuts. There are two tasting menus: Douro (€70 for five courses) and seafood (€75 for six).