The cellarlike dining room, converted from a 16th-century communal bakery and dotted with traditional rural implements, gets busy on summer weekends, when people crowd in for the folksinging and dancing sessions. There's fado every other Friday. Sitting at tables under stone arches or on the open-air terrace, you can choose from a fine range of regional dishes: start with the aperitivos regionais (a selection of cod pastries and cheeses); move on to the house bacalhau,
the exceedingly tender polvo na brasa (charcoal-grilled octopus), or the cabrito à Serra d'Arga (roast kid). There's a good wine list and live music on weekends.
Beco dos Fornos 7–9, off Praça da República, Viana do Castelo, 4900–523, Portugal