The only museum in Lisbon to approach the status of the Gulbenkian is the Ancient Art Museum, founded in 1884. It was the first large public museum dedicated to the arts in Portugal. In a 17th-century palace, once owned by the Counts of Alvor, and vastly enlarged in 1940 when it took over the Convent of St. Albert, it has a beautifully displayed collection of Portuguese art—mainly from the 15th through 19th century—that superbly complements the Gulbenkian's general collection. Indeed, Gulbenkian himself donated several pieces to this museum, which opened in 1883.
Of all the holdings, the religious works of the Portuguese school of artists (characterized by fine portraiture with a distinct Flemish influence) stand out, especially the acknowledged masterpiece of Nuno Gonçalves, the St. Vincent Altarpiece. Painted between 1467 and 1470 for St. Vincent Chapel in Lisbon's cathedral, the altarpiece has six panels showing the patron saint of Lisbon receiving the homage of king, court, and citizens. Sixty figures can be identified, including Henry the Navigator; the archbishop of Lisbon; and sundry dukes, monks, fishermen, knights, and religious figures. In the top left corner of the two central panels is a figure purported to be Gonçalves himself.
Besides the Portuguese works, there are pieces by early Flemish painters who influenced the Portuguese. Other European artists are well represented, too, and although few of the works are really first rate, there are interesting examples by artists as diverse as Hieronymous Bosch, Hans Holbein, Brueghel the Younger, and painter to the Spanish court Diego Velázquez. There are also extensive collections of French silver, Portuguese furniture and tapestries, Asian ceramics, and items fashioned from Goan ivory.
Tram 15 from Praça do Comércio drops you at the foot of a steep flight of steps below the museum. Otherwise, Buses 27 and 49 from Praça Marquês de Pombal run straight to Rua das Janelas Verdes. Coming from Belém, Buses 27 and 49 run from Rua de Belém across from the monastery and stop near the museum on their way back to downtown Lisbon.
Visit the Travel Talk forums for help on planning your trip