The local intelligentsia have made this low-key, comfortable restaurant their refuge, though owner Eugenio Fidalgo has been welcoming every sort of patron for four decades now. He'll gladly help you with the Portuguese menu and the excellent, well-priced wine list. Try one of the specialties such as bacalhau or octopus à lagareiro (baked in olive oil, with tiny potatoes), or the incredibly succulent medalhões de javali (wild boar cutlets). Fidalgo was recently
redecorated from top to bottom and is looking better than ever.