Nothing is pretentious at this dockside restaurant. Large red umbrellas shade the esplanade tables. Plank floors set the tone in the downstairs dining room, and there's an agreeable madhouse of long tables and camaraderie upstairs. The pratos do dia (daily specials) are predictable, but if you try melon with smoked ham or caldho verde (green soup) as a starter, and then follow it with something grilled, you can't go wrong. Dinner reservations are advised.
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