This famous café-restaurant, founded in 1782 beneath the arcades of Praça do Comércio, was once frequented by the Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa and other literary stars. These days the lunchtime crowd in its wood-paneled dining room is mainly businesspeople. The menu lists regional Portuguese cuisine; sometimes there's a colonial splash with the occasional Brazilian dish. Try a cataplana (clam stew) from the Algarve, especially if you won't be heading south on this trip.
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