Everyone knows that if you want to eat seafood in the center of Lisbon, you come to the Baixa district's Rua das Portas de Santo Antão. Waiters lurk in the doorways of the many fish eateries that line this pedestrians-only street a block east of Praça dos Restauradores. Most establishments display fish on ice slabs and great tanks of lobsters; choose your meal and then sit at a table outside on the cobblestones to enjoy it. There are subtle contrasts here, too. Alongside the aforementioned restaurants there are tiny bars with an amazing selection of sandwiches, rolls, and other tasty bits and pieces. There's also Gambrinus, a restaurant considered one of the very best in Portugal, let alone Lisbon. Later, if you're daring, pop into one of the street's two surviving ginginha bars—cubbyholes where unshaven gents and local characters stand around throwing down shots of eye-wateringly strong cherry brandy.
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