Hop off Tram 28 at this terrace-garden viewpoint that takes in the Alfama and the river. It catches the sun all day, and a nearby café serves welcome drinks. The adjacent Igreja de Santa Luzia (Church of Santa Luzia) is a sorry sight these days. Its exterior was once adorned with fine azulejos depicting the siege of the castle. They've been replaced by heartfelt graffiti—aqui havia historia-cultura. agora—0" ("Here there once existed history and culture. Now—nothing")—that makes its point.
Visit the Travel Talk forums for help on planning your trip