Quintessential Portugal

Quintessential Portugal

Pastelarias

Only the staunchest dieter will not be tempted by Portugal's deliciously calorific cakes and pastries. The window displays are real cream-cake affairs, invariably wedged between trendy boutiques catering to fashionable beanpoles. Every region has its specialty sweet treat, generally known as doces conventuais (convent desserts), which usually originates from the respective local convent. And, yes, they really are a touch of heaven. In the Algarve, the Moorish influence is evident in the marzipan and almond biscuits, while farther north in Abrantes the egg pastries known as bolo de anjo (angel cake—those nuns again) have a melt-in-the-mouth fluffy topping. If you are seeking true sublimity, however, bite into a warm pasties de nata, straight from the oven. These gorgeous custard tarts are made with flaky light pastry, creamy egg custard, and sprinkled cinnamon.

Feiras

The Portuguese love to party and here (as in neighboring Spain) there are countless annual celebrations and fiestas. Don't miss out when you are traveling around and be sure to check at the local tourist office for upcoming events. For the Portuguese the country's fairs and festivals are far more than holidays from the year's work. They are occasions in which to be immersed with passion and commitment. At saints' days, harvest festivals, pilgrimages, and feiras (fairs), you can expect everything from ceremonial pomp and religious processions to wild street parties and quaint traditions. St. John's in Porto (June 23) is a good example of the latter, with everyone hitting each other over the head with plastic hammers or leeks while enjoying a night of drinking, revelry, and dance from dusk to dawn in the city streets.

Bacalhau

Few people understand the bounty of the sea more than the Portuguese. One singularly appetizing delicacy called bacalhau (dried, salted cod) appears on the menu at virtually every restaurant, though it is definitely an acquired taste. Shop fronts are chockablock with the stuff: think fossilized white strips of leather and you will be on the right track. There are reputedly 365 ways of preparing this curious delicacy, ranging from roasted with onions and potatoes to fish pie. The Portuguese love affair with seafood encompasses just about everything that swims in the sea, including limpets (normally braised with garlic). In Lisbon there is an entire street—Rua dos Bacalhaus (Codfish Street)—dedicated to the lowly cod. Grilled sardines are prevalent as well, but don't expect the tinned variety you might be accustomed to. The Portuguese prefer to serve them whole, head and all.

Fado

The dramatic image of a black-shawled fado singer, head thrown back, eyes closed with emotion, has become an emblem of Portugal; the swelling, soulful song with the plaintive guitar accompaniment seems to embody Portugal's romantic essence. Fado's importance is such that when the great fadista Amália Rodrigues died in 1999, the government declared three days of national mourning and awarded her a state funeral. When the singing begins in a fado house, all talking ceases and a reverent silence descends on the tables. A world of immutable sadness appears, populated by many types of people: the lost, the poor and oppressed, the abandoned and rejected. You should not miss an opportunity to witness this unique musical style.