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Lisbon's dining scene has evolved dramatically in recent years to include any number of high-end dining opportunities, but amid the international fare, Michelin-starred restaurants, and molecular gastronomy, the city's simplest and most traditional restaurants still do a roaring trade. Meals generally include three courses, a dr
Lisbon's dining scene has evolved dramatically in recent years to include any number of high-end dining opportunities, but amid the international fare, Michelin-starred restaurants, and molecular gastronomy, the city's simplest and most traditional restaurants still do
Lisbon's dining scene has evolved dramatically in recent years to include any number of high-end dining opportunities, b
Lisbon's dining scene has evolved dramatically in recent years to include any number of high-end dining opportunities, but amid the international fare, Michelin-starred restaurants, and molecular gastronomy, the city's simplest and most traditional restaurants still do a roaring trade. Meals generally include three courses, a drink, and coffee. Many restaurants have an ementa turistica (tourist menu), a set-price meal, most often served at lunchtime. Note that you'll be charged a couple of euros if you eat any of the couvert items—typically appetizers such as bread and butter, olives, and the like—that are brought to your table without being ordered.
Lisbon's restaurants usually serve lunch from noon or 12:30 until 3 and dinner from 7:30 until 11; many establishments are closed Sunday or Monday. Inexpensive restaurants typically don't accept reservations. In the traditional cervejarias (beer-hall restaurants), which frequently have huge dining rooms, you'll probably have to wait for a table, but usually not more than 10 minutes. In the Bairro Alto, many of the reasonably priced tascas (taverns) are on the small side: if you can't grab a table, you're probably better off moving on to the next place. Throughout Lisbon, dress for meals is usually casual, but exceptions are noted below.
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Chiado and Bairro Alto
Avenida da Liberdade, Príncipe Real, and Restauradores
This brilliant blue taverna is one of the Bairro Alto's oldest and most popular—lines form outside early in the evening and diners are packed in like sardines until late at night. The busy atmosphere is part of the charm, and the menu is strong on traditional Portuguese dishes like bacalhau real (a baked salt cod dish), best washed down with a carafe of house wine.
Travessa da Queimada 37, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1200-364, Portugal
213 427 959
Known For
Excellent renderings of traditional dishes
Grilled fresh fish
Friendly service, generous portions, and fair prices
The largest of Cacilhas's many marisqueiras (traditional seafood restaurants), Cabrinha has been doing a roaring business among locals and out-of-towners since 1978. Crustaceans of all shapes and sizes are priced by weight, while steaks, grilled fish, and the famous seafood stew will satisfy a hearty appetite without blowing the budget.
Beco Bom Sucesso 4, Cacilhas, Setúbal, 2800-267, Portugal
The Portuguese take their canned fish seriously. Find out what all the fuss is about at this funky restaurant where the chefs incorporate canned goods into all manner of dishes—it sounds gimmicky, but the results are delicious.
Praça do Comércio 82--83, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1100-148, Portugal
This place hasn’t changed a bit over the years, from the beams across the ceiling to the harnesses and wagon wheels that serve as decor. It's a favorite among locals, who come here to enjoy friendly service and a hearty taste of food from the Alentejo region among the bustle of the Bairro Alto.
Travessa do Poço da Cidade 19, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1200-333, Portugal
Today it's a lively spot for petiscos and cocktails, but Casa Faz Frio was once the location for secret political meetings (and romantic trysts) thanks to its secluded gabinetes (booths). It's been given a top-to-toe overhaul, but retains its paneled booths, tiled floors, and other details from its more than 150 years of history. Light dishes such as chilled tomato soup and tapas-style plates for sharing make for sociable dining in a cozy bar-restaurant.
Rua de Dom Pedro V 96–98, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1250-095, Portugal
There’s an enormous array of top-quality Portuguese cheeses, wines, and petiscos on the menu at Grapes & Bites. Nightly live sets from talented local and international solo artists add an extra dash of panache to the proceedings.
Rua do Norte 85, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1200-284, Portugal
For cod dishes prepared with great pride, come to this restaurant that's been specializing in all things bacalhau since 1976. Chef and owner António Pereira learned to cook in the former Portuguese colony of Mozambique, so expect a few Mozambican dishes alongside excellent renderings of Portuguese favorites like bacalhau à brás (creamy shredded cod with egg and potatoes).
Av. Conde Valbom 71A, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1050-067, Portugal
On a street lined with tourist traps, O Churrasco is the local favorite and deservedly so. The paneled dining room serves top-notch peri peri chicken, sizzling steaks, and perfectly grilled fish.
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 83–85, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1150-266, Portugal
The oldest cervejaria (relaxed dining and drinking spot) in the region, O Farol has been serving cold beer, rich seafood stews, and delicious shellfish since 1890. The brightly lit space feels more functional than fashionable, but the crowds eating here are a testament to the outstanding seafood, and the sunset views over the river to Lisbon are magical.
Largo Alfredo Dinis 1, Cacilhas, Setúbal, 2800-252, Portugal
The food at this wood-paneled restaurant around the corner from the Feira da Ladra flea market is expertly prepared and comes in portions big enough for two or three people to share. The brothers who run the place are from the northern Beiras region, and many of the dishes are meat-focused examples of its culinary traditions, but there are plenty of seafood options as well.
Calçada de São Vicente 54–58, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1100-570, Portugal
Huge stone arches and a beautiful mural made of azulejo tiles grace this charming restaurant, which offers upscale cuisine at very reasonable prices. Light Portuguese dishes are prepared with love and beautifully presented, and the cocktail list is impressive, too.
Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 8A-8B, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1100-070, Portugal
This updated version of the traditional Portuguese tasca (tavern) is an informal space where everyone seems to start off with a gin and tonic—there are 80 gins on the list. That said, food is hardly an afterthought as the kitchen turns out all sorts of delicious plates like black rice with cuttlefish or braised tuna that are the perfect size to share.
Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 18, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1100-070, Portugal
Named after the mythical water nymphs of the Tagus River, this place is divided into two parts: a sleek, modern dining room serving refined versions of Portuguese dishes upstairs and a more relaxed wine-and-tapas bar downstairs. Both spaces face the river, so the tables by the windows are some of the most coveted in town.
Largo Academia Nacional de Belas Artes 18–20, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1200-005, Portugal
Vítor Sobral, one of the country’s most famous chefs, has brought together the vibe of a traditional neighborhood eatery and sophisticated dishes that appeal to modern palates at "Tavern on the Corner." Expect to see fast food favorites like bitoque (lean steak topped with an egg) given a slick modern twist.
Rua Domingos Sequeira 41C, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1350-119, Portugal
An unpretentious traditional tasca (tavern) hidden among Bairro Alto’s many noisy cocktail bars and tourist traps, Tasca do Manel serves hearty portions of excellent Portuguese food at fair prices. The fish soup and duck rice are house specialties, as are the homemade wine and the potent bagaço (Portuguese grappa) that usually rounds off a meal here.
Rua da Barroca 24, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1200-050, Portugal
A lively crowd gathers in the chic dining room of this contemporary restaurant (once the Swiss ambassador's residence), packs into the backyard terrace, and jostles for a spot at the cocktail bar. The zero-waste menu, which changes regularly, focuses on fresh seasonal ingredients, all sourced from Portuguese shores. There's an emphasis on fire and flame, so expect smoked, chargrilled, and barbecued treats like squid from the Azores and prawns from the Algarve. Daily vegetarian options ensures everyone is happy.
Rua São Pedro de Alcântara 81, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1250-238, Portugal
One of several notable restaurants at the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, Varanda is consistently at the top of its game thanks to the keen eye of French-Canadian executive chef Pascal Meynard. He oversees a seasonally changing tasting menu at dinner (the octopus confit is a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach) and a wide range of à la carte dishes throughout the day.
Rua Rodrigo de Fonseca 88, Lisbon, Lisbon, 1099-039, Portugal
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