The Romanesque collegiate church in Tum, which is built of granite and sandstone, dates back to the 12th century and is one of the most magnificent churches throughout Poland—and it's well worth a detour from the main routes if you are traveling to Łódź or Toruń from Warsaw. Even though it was partly damaged and has been rebuilt periodically throughout its history, the church has retained its original shape and many of its original architectural details. At the main entrance, note the Romanesque portal, which is framed by adoring angels. Be sure to take a look at the crucifix in the main aisle and the surviving fragments of ancient frescoes in the western apse.
Today the church stands well off the beaten tourist path, so it's not often visited, though you should expect absolutely no tourist infrastructure in the small village. The church is usually open, but if it happens to be locked when you arrive, the keys can be collected from the priest at the parish house opposite the church (approximately 100 meters to the east). Admission is free, but contributions toward the restoration of the church are gratefully accepted.