You would usually expect to see it in Dublin, but the complete manuscript of James Joyce's Ulysses has been handwritten on to the walls of the Verbal Arts Centre by Colin Dark. You won't, of course, have time to read all of it, but while you're here, admire the marble floor designed by the celebrated Irish artist Louis le Brocquy, who died in 2012. The center is a hotbed of literary activity promoting the spoken and written word, and presents storytelling re-created
in the old Irish tradition of fireside tales. Book hounds love to chill at Blooms Café, a delightful spot looking out over Derry's walls.