Utrecht

Birthplace of the 16th-century pope Adrian VI (the only Dutch one), Utrecht has been a powerful bishopric since the seventh century and is still a major religious center. First settled by Romans, Utrecht achieved its first glory in the 16th century, when the religious power of the town was made manifest in the building of four churches at points of an enormous imaginary cross, with the Dom (cathedral) in the center. It was in Utrecht that the Dutch Republic was established in 1579 with the signing of the Union of Utrecht. In addition to being home to Holland's largest university, the city has so many curiosities, high-gabled houses, fascinating water gates, hip shops, artsy cafés, and winding canals that the traveler can almost forgive the city for being one of the busiest and most modern in Holland. Happily, the central core remains redolent with history, particularly along the Oudegracht (Old Canal), which winds through the central shopping district (to the east of the train station shopping complex).

If you arrive by train, you might be forgiven for thinking Utrecht is one enormous covered shopping mall, since the station is incorporated into the warren of 200-plus shops that is the Hoog Catharijne. You could get lost here for a day, but if you follow signs for Centrum (town center) and keep walking with determination, you will eventually come out in the historic center. The soaring tower of Domtoren, or "the cathedral that is missing," on the skyline will direct you to the center of the action. Most of the main sights are in a fairly compact area and reachable on foot within a few minutes of the Domtoren.