By Train in Amsterdam

By Train

The Netherlands has a compact network; the trains are among the most modern in Europe and are the quickest way to travel between city centers. Services are relatively frequent, with a minimum of two departures per hour for each route. The carriages are modern and clean, and although many Dutch people complain about delays, the trains usually run exactly on time.

On the train you have the choice of roken (smoking) or niet roken (no-smoking), and first or second class, indicated with a large 1 or 2 painted on the outside of the train, for your reference as you get on, and at the end of each aisle. First-class travel costs about 40% more, which on local trains gives you a slightly larger seat in a compartment that is less likely to be full. At peak travel times, first-class train travel is worth the difference.

Intercity trains are novel in that they can come double-decker; they travel only within the country. Sneltreins (express trains) also have two decks but take in more stops, so they are a little slower. Stoptreins (local trains) are the slowest.

If you have a reduction pass, you are restricted from using it before 9 AM; further, as all trains serve commuters, you most likely won't get a seat if you travel during rush hour, which makes later travel doubly appealing.

To avoid long lines at station ticket windows when you're in a hurry, buy tickets in advance. Train tickets for travel within the country can be purchased at the last minute. Normal tickets are either enkele reis (one-way) or retour (round-trip). Round-trip tickets cost approximately 74% of two single tickets. They are valid only on the day you buy them, unless you ask specifically for a ticket with a different date, or not dated. If you buy a nondated ticket, you must stamp the date on your ticket before you board the train on your day of travel. Use one of the small yellow machines near the tracks. Just hold the ticket flat and slide it in the gap until you hear a short ring. Once stamped, your ticket is valid for the rest of the day. You can get on and off at will at stops in between your destinations until midnight.

Most main-line rail ticket windows are open Monday-Thursday 6 AM-11 PM, Friday 6 AM-11:45 PM, Saturday 7 AM-11:45 PM, and Sunday 7 AM-11 PM, and no credit cards, debit cards, or traveler's checks are valid for payment. If you don't have euros, bureau de change GWK has a branch at Centraal Station.

If you forget to stamp your ticket in the machine, or you didn't make it in time to buy a ticket, you could actively seek out an inspector and pay the on-board fare, a stinging 70% more expensive than at the railway station counter. As in a tram or metro, you often travel in a train without anyone asking to check your ticket. If you wait for the inspector to find out that you don't have a valid ticket, he or she will insist you buy a ticket at the higher rate -- but there is no lesser penalty for owning up before being found out (in fact, you may also need to pay a hefty fine).

Apart from using the ticket window in a station, you can buy tickets at the yellow ticket machines in the main hall of the railway station, or on the platforms. These machines accept cash and cards, if you have a four-digit PIN code. Each city is allocated a number (which is also the city's postal code), which you select from the list on the machine. For example, Amsterdam is 1000, Delft is 2600. Key this in, and then choose which of the following you want as flashing lights highlight each pair of options: first or second class; full fare or with a reduction; same-day travel or without a date stamp; and, finally, one-way or round-trip.

Note that in some Dutch cities (including Amsterdam, The Hague, and Delft) there are two or more stations, although one is the principal station, and is called the Centraal. Be sure of the exact name of the station from which your train will depart, and at which you wish to get out. Described in more detail below, train stations in Amsterdam (all preceded by the name Amsterdam) are Centraal, Sloterdijk, Muiderpoort, Amstel, Lelylaan, South/World Trade Center, Rai, Bijlmer, and Duivendrecht. There are about nine train stations in the center city, but only a few are of interest to visitors. All trains for national or international destinations depart from Centraal Station. Business travelers go to Station Rai for the RAI congress center and Station South/World Trade Center. There is a refreshment service on intercity trains, with roller carts or a cafeteria or dining car.

Train Information

NS-Nederlandse Spoorwegen/Dutch Railways (0900/202-1163 calls cost 10¢ per minute. www.ns.nl).

Cutting Costs

English-language folders with information about special-rate day-trip train journeys to various destinations in Holland are available through the VVV (tourist information board) and from the information center at Centraal Station.

Once in Holland, inquire about the Voordeel-urenkaart, a reduction card available for all ages. It costs EUR 49 and entitles the holder to a 40% discount on all first- and second-class tickets, when traveling after 9 AM. You need a residential address to apply for this card, as well as correct ID. The card proper will take between four and six weeks to be processed and arrive on your doorstep, but you are issued a valid card for the interim time. When you plan a day trip, inquire about special offers for cardholders for an all-in-one deal that gets you to a destination and includes the admission fee to one or more of the local sights.