Any city that began in the 13th century as a sinking bog to eventually become the 17th century's most powerful trading city has a fascinating story to tell, and this museum does it superbly. It's housed in a rambling amalgamation of buildings, which was used as an orphanage in 1580 and then reopened as a museum in 1975. On the ground level are the old Boys' and Girls' Courtyards, separated by a loggia. In the boys' section, now the terrace of the David & Goliath Café, are rows of wooden lockers once used by the orphans but now adorned with photos and artwork depicting Amsterdam's cultural life.
Exiting the opposite end will lead you toward Schutters Gallery. This atrium—which used to be a narrow canal that separated the boy orphans from the girl orphans—is filled with huge, historic portraits of city militias. As portrait art in the 1600s was a symbol of wealth, power and most importantly, bragging rights, the militia companies sure seemed to like to brag. These paintings, which are free to see, are impressive. Pride of place here is given to works by Dirck Barendsz and Cornelis Anthonisz, notably the latter's Meal of the 17 Guardsmen of Company H. Elsewhere, be sure to take in the grand Regents' Chamber, adorned with a magnificent 1656 ceiling painting. Also notable are the paintings of the great Golden Age, along with 17th-century city maps and dour Burgomeister, or mayoral portraits, and a stirring photographic collage that captures the triumphs and tragedies of the modern-day metropolis.
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