With its milk-white walls, dramatic black-and-white patterned floors, Delft plates, fireplace hearths, and old chandeliers, this stately place does conjure up the amber canvases of the great Johannes. Its superposh vibe, however, suggests that no milkmaid will be able to afford the prices here, set within the 17th-century wing of the NH Barbizon Palace Hotel. The way chef Christopher Naylor combines tastes, textures, and temperatures is masterful, may it be sea bass poached
in buttermilk with white asparagus, sweet and sour grapefruit, and ginger cream, or lamb with nettles, chicory, and pistachio. And for €110 you can get the full nine-course roller coaster of dishes, or four courses for €80 and five courses for €95. An army of waitstaff is on hand to ensure that the service is always impeccable.