The monumental Krasnapolsky is one of the few places in Amsterdam where you can still inhale a true Belle Epoque atmosphere—though sadly, not in the frustratingly bland though well-maintained guest rooms. The Reflet restaurant is a 19th-century oasis of elegance, and the soaringly beautiful Wintertuin (Winter Garden) is now the hotel's breakfast room (also open to nonguests). Sitting in this masterpiece of 19th-century allure, under a greenhouse roof and replete
with potted palms, Victorian chandeliers, and buffet tables stocked with cakes and roses, might make you feel like a countess or duke. Later you can sweat out your indulgences in the well-equipped gym.