Although its name has nothing to do with the 1980s television show of the same name, this restaurant's regular clientele (showbiz types, football heroes, dangling arm candy) does sometimes resemble a casting call for a soap opera. The interior is certainly fanciful: the Art Deco starting point blurs into an Asian frenzy of rice-paper umbrellas hanging from the ceiling and a supporting chorus of golden Buddhas. In the summer, try for a table on the "dream terrace" majestically
set in a Golden Age courtyard. Happily, chef K. Y. Lai's menu, which is full of Cantonese, Thai, Malaysian, and Vietnamese culinary classics, is as ambitious as the décor; his drunken prawns (jumbo shrimp marinated in an intoxicating broth of Chinese herbs and Xiaoxing wine) are reliably excellent, as are many of the other specialties here.