Although its name has nothing to do with the 1980s television show of the same name, this restaurant's regular clientele (showbiz types, football heroes dangling arm candy) does sometimes resemble a casting call for a soap opera. Although it's not required, you may want to dress up a bit when you come here. The interior is certainly fanciful: the Art Deco starting point blurs into an Asian frenzy of rice-paper umbrellas and golden Buddhas. In the summer, you should try for a table on the "dream terrace" set in a majestic Golden Age courtyard. Chef K. Y. Lee's menu, which is full of Cantonese, Thai, Malaysian, and Vietnamese culinary classics, is as ambitious as the décor; his drunken prawns (jumbo shrimp marinated in an intoxicating broth of Chinese herbs and Xiaoxing wine) are reliably excellent.
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