Built in 1784, the Stadsschouwburg's classical facade still dominates Leidseplein, despite all the neon advertising. In the 18th century, the original building on the Keizersgracht burned down mid-performance and killed many in the audience -- a tragedy regarded as poetic justice by Calvinists who thought theater was decadent. After burning down and being rebuilt several more times, the current Neo-Renaissance facade and lushly Baroque horseshoe interior was created in 1890. The nation's theater scene descended into staidness until 1968, when, during a performance of the Tempest, the actors were showered with tomatoes. The reaction was a nationwide protest, the "tomato campaign," to show people's discontent with established theater's lack of social engagement. It resulted in subsidies for newer theater groups -- many of which now form the old guard who regularly play here. Today, Dutch theater is dynamic, strongly physical and visual, with an often hilariously absurdist sense.

Although the majority of the programming is in Dutch, there's also a constant stream of visiting international theater and dance companies. The international Theater & Film Books store downstairs next to the entrance of the Stadsschouwburg also comes highly recommended by theater lovers.