This excellent neighborhood brown café ("brown" because of its nicotine-stained nature) has a long history of being packed with boisterous drinkers and diners. Its past is reflected in its tile tableaux and century-old fittings. The Dutch fare is of the bold meat-potato-vegetable variety, always wonderfully prepared and sometimes even with an occasional adventurous diversion, such as the sea bass tastily swimming in a sauce of fennel and spinach (but regulars usually
just opt for the spare ribs). At lunchtime on Saturdays there is a menu of sandwiches and warm snacks.