With its milk-white walls, dramatic black-and-white patterned floors, Delft plates, fireplace hearths, and old chandeliers, this stately place does conjure up the amber canvases of the great Johannes. Its super-posh vibe, however, suggests that no milkmaid on earth will be able to afford the prices of this restaurant set within the 17th-century wing of the NH Barbizon Palace Hotel. Current chef Chris Naylor aspires to equal heights as his predecessors with such dishes as poached skate with wakame seaweed and fine nicoise ravioli in squid bouillon. An army of waiters are on hand to ensure that the service is always impeccable.
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