As in Venice, bridges here link a number of small islands, dotted with houses that once were workmen's cottages. The republic, concerned about fire hazard in the 13th century, moved its glassworks to Murano, and today you can visit the factories and watch glass being made. Many of them line the Fondamenta dei Vetrai, the canal-side walkway leading from the Colonna vaporetto landing. Before you reach Murano's Grand Canal (250 yards from the landing) you'll pass the Chiesa di San Pietro Martire. Reconstructed in the 16th century, it houses Giovanni Bellini's Madonna and Child and Veronese's St. Jerome. [. Fondamenta dei Vetrai. 041/739704. Mon.-Sat. 9-noon and 3-6, Sun. 3-6. [f24]Colonna

The collection at Museo Vetrario ranges from priceless antiques to only slightly less expensive modern pieces. You'll see authentic Venetian styles and patterns, including the famous Barovier wedding cup (1470-80).[. Fondamenta Giustinian 8. 041/739586. EUR 4, EUR 6 with Museo del Merletto; Musei Civici pass EUR 18. Apr.-Oct., Thurs.-Tues. 10-5; Nov.-Mar., Thurs.-Tues. 10-4; last tickets sold 1/2 hr before closing. [f24]Museo

Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato, just past the glass museum, is among the first churches founded by the lagoon's original inhabitants. The elaborate mosaic pavement includes the date 1140; its ship's keel roof and Veneto-Byzantine columns add to the air of an ancient temple. Fondamenta Giustinian. 041/739056. Free. Mon.-Sat. 8-noon and 4-6, Sun. 2-6. [f24]Museo.