Murano

Murano Review

As in Venice, bridges here link a number of small islands, which are dotted with houses that once were workmen's cottages. In the 13th century the Republic, concerned about fire hazard and anxious to maintain control of its artisans' expertise, moved its glassworks to Murano, and today you can visit the factories and watch glass being made. Many of them line the Fondamenta dei Vetrai, the canal-side walkway leading from the Colonna vaporetto landing.

Before you reach Murano's Grand Canal (a little more than 800 feet from the landing), you'll pass Chiesa di San Pietro Martire. Reconstructed in the 16th century, it houses Giovanni Bellini's Madonna and Child and Veronese's St. Jerome. Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 30141. 041/739704. Weekdays 9-6, Sat. 2-6, Sun. 11:30-5. Vaporetto: Vaporetto: Colonna.

The collection at the Museo del Vetro ranges from priceless antiques to only slightly less-precious modern pieces. You can see an exhibition on the history of glass, along with a chance to review authentic Venetian styles, patterns, and works by the most famous glassmakers. Don't miss the famous Barovier wedding cup (1470-80). Fondamenta Giustinian 8, 30141. 041/739586. www.museiciviciveneziani.it. €6.50, Museums of San Marco Plus Pass €13 (Apr.-Oct.), Musei Civici Pass €18. Apr.-Oct., Thurs.-Tues. 10-6; Nov.-Mar., Thurs.-Tues. 10-5. Last entry 1 hr before closing. Vaporetto: Vaporetto: Museo.

The Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato, just past the glass museum, is among the first churches founded by the lagoon's original inhabitants. The elaborate mosaic pavement includes the date 1140; its ship's-keel roof and Veneto-Byzantine columns add to the semblance of an ancient temple. Fondamenta Giustinian, 30141. 041/739056. Mon.-Sat. 8-6, Sun. 2-6. Vaporetto: Vaporetto: Museo.