Many claim that owner Domenico Iacuzio is one of Venice's best chefs, even though he hails from Italy's deep south. In May 2012, he moved from La Colombina, revitalizing the more expansive Bentigodi, just a three-minute walk away. The chef marries delicious Venetian culinary traditions with southern accents; try sarde in saor, which perfectly balances sweet and savory, and the diced raw tuna cipolata, enlivened by sautéed onions and oranges. His seafood risottos
are always made to order, and his preparations of freshly caught—never farmed—fish are magical. For the Venetian traditionalist, Domenico prepares a first-class fritto misto (deep-fried seafood) dish. If you've missed his southern accent up to now, you'll find it at dessert with homemade southern specialties such as cannoli or cassata (candied Sicilian cake). Portions are ample, the atmosphere is informal, and the service is helpful.