Having had a stall at the Rialto fish market for over 25 years, Lolo, the proprietor, really knows fish, and diners fill two cheerful dining rooms to savor what might just be the freshest fish in Venice. There are several spectacular offerings of pesce crudo (raw fish) among the antipasti. Pastas are excellent and the fish entrées are prepared simply but with a twist. Branzino (sea bass) may be topped with its own crispy skin and a frizzle of zucchini or wrapped around itself with the succulent skin becoming the stuffing. Meat dishes are available, but the wine list is built around local wines that go best with fish.
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