A waterfront table is more affordable at lunchtime here on Venice's northern Fondamente Nove, where instead of a grand palazzo, the wide-open lagoon is the backdrop—on a clear day, the majestic Dolomites put on quite a show. Algiubagiò has a dual personality: big salads at lunch (a better bet than the pizza); at dinner, creative primi like ravioli stuffed with pecorino di fossa (a hard sheep's-milk cheese) are followed by elegant secondi such as Angus fillets
with vodka and Gorgonzola. The young, friendly staff also serves ice cream, drinks, and sandwiches all day. A lunch table is an airy respite; while quite romantic, dinnertime sees a considerable rise in prices.