Religious Sites, Dorsoduro
Fodor's Review:
Padovans fleeing the Lombard invasion in the 7th century chose this scrap of an island called Mendigola to found their church. A humble fishing village grew up around it and became the west end haunt of the Nicolotti, one of the town's two historic "gangs." A community unto itself, it had its its own lion atop a column (wingless but still there), its own flag, and even a leader dubbed the Doge of the Nicolotti. The current 12th-century church of San Nicolò has had enough renovations to document changing fashions of church architecture. The bell tower has survived since the 12th century but only just -- it took a stray shell during the German withdrawal in World War II. The facade and its 13th-century windows were rediscovered only when 18th-century restoration shucked the bad remodeling that had covered them over interim centuries. The Gothic-style porch was a popular 15th-century feature among Venetian churches, built to shelter the pinzocchere (female beggars). The interior, brilliantly restored after Venice's 1966 flood by the Venice in Peril Fund, is covered with paintings by Veronese's pupils, including Alvise Dal Friso (1554-1608). Also worth seeing is Palma il Giovane's (1544-1628) Resurrection.
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