Fodor's Expert Review Bentigodi di Chef Domenico

Many claim that owner Domenico Iacuzio is one of Venice's best chefs, even though he hails from Italy's deep south. The chef marries delicious Venetian culinary traditions with southern accents; try the sarde in saor, which perfectly balances sweet and savory, and the diced raw tuna cipolata, enlivened by sautéed onions and oranges, as well as seafood risottos, freshly caught fish, and—for the Venetian traditionalist—a first-class fritto misto (deep-fried seafood). If you've missed his southern accent so far, you'll find it at dessert with homemade southern specialties like cannoli or cassata (candied Sicilian cake). Portions are ample, the atmosphere is informal, and the service is helpful.