$, Italian, San Polo
Fodor's Review:
A rough Venetian floor and the motto Vinum bonum fortificat cor hominis (good wine fortifies the man's heart) are tip-offs to the character of this classic bacaro that was once the haunt of Casanova. The plump host, Giorgio Lanza, is the town's unofficial authority on little sandwiches. He coined the term paperini for his own creations -- cichetti served on bruschetta -- and after tasting one you'll happily add the word to your Venetian vocabulary. At mealtimes, the bacaro doubles as a trattoria; stick to more traditional dishes such as salsicce (sausage) di secole, bean soup, baccalà, and cuttlefish.
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