This cozy hotel is in a former grain mill, but polished wood planks and handwoven rugs have replaced the rustic flooring. The comfortable sitting rooms and bedrooms are filled with a mix of antique and modern pieces. Rooms on the top floor—some with terraces—have views of the valley below, silvery green with olive trees. A separate building with additional rooms is surrounded by a garden. Pack light, as there are plenty of steps and you carry your bags. The hotel's wood-beamed restaurant ($$-$$$) serves refined international cuisine and unusual adaptations of traditional recipes. The menu changes with the seasons, so look for roasted pigeon or a sorbetto of wild berries in the summer; toward winter, truffles will appear. The regionally known sommelier dispenses advice about wines. Pros: Lovely terrace restaurant, cozy rooms, fine views. Cons: Some shared balconies, breakfast is underwhelming.
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