A few short turns away from the facade of San Michele, this noisy, informal, traditional trattoria delivers cucina alla casalinga (home cooking) in the best sense. Try the typical minestra di farro to start or just go straight to secondi piatti (entrées); in addition to the usual roast meats, there's excellent chicken with olives and a good cold dish of boiled meats served with a sauce of parsley and pine nuts. Save some room for a dessert, such as the rich,
sweet, fig-and-walnut torte or the lemon sorbet brilliantly dotted with bits of sage, which tastes almost like mint, and is indescribably delicious. So, too, is the chestnut ice cream.
Via Tegrimi 1, at corner of Via degli Asili, Lucca, 55100, Italy