Only a handful of people actually live on the island of Capraia, which is frequented mainly by sailors. It's a rocky and hilly unspoiled national park, with only one sandy beach, Cala della Mortola, on the northern end of the island; the rest of the coast is a succession of cliffs and deep green coves with pretty rock formations. The 2½-hour ferry trip departs from Livorno and pulls in at the town of Capraia Isola, dominated by the Fortezza di San Giorgio
up above. Nearby, an archway leads to an area that was once a prison.