David and Catherine Gardner, Scottish expats, have transformed a ramshackle 16th-century villa into a stunning little retreat where no two rooms are alike—all have stenciled walls; some have four-poster beds, others small mezzanines. Bathrooms are a riot of color, with tiles from Vietri. A sitting room on the second floor, with a cozy fireplace, is the perfect place for a cup of tea or a glass of wine. The hotel's restaurant has a talented young chef who gives cooking
lessons in the modern kitchen.