Duccio Ugolini is in the kitchen, and his wife Miriam Manni runs this large, one-room trattoria, which has a grand view of beautiful woods and ski slopes. In the middle of the room is a fireplace, which casts a lovely glow in cooler months. Local ingredients like mushrooms and chestnuts take center stage here. The chef has a deft touch with mushrooms; his insalatina di porcini e grana (salad of raw, shaved porcini and cheese) is delicate; his flan di finferli e crema di tartufo (an eggy dish with fine, thin mushrooms), sublime. Sommeliers abound in the couple's extended family, and it shows in the exquisite wine list.
Via Brennero 256, Abetone, Tuscany, 51021, Italy