The Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Places to Explore

Udine

Udine, the largest city on the Friuli side of the region, has a provincial, genteel atmosphere and lots of charm. The city sometimes seems completely unaffected by tourism, and things are still done the way they were decades ago. In the medieval and Renaissance historical center of town, you'll find unevenly spaced streets with appealing little wine bars and open-air cafés. Friulani are proud of their local culture, with many restaurants featuring Friulano cuisine, and street signs and announcements written in both Italian and Friulano dialect. But the main reason for devoting some time to Udine is to see the largest assembly outside Venice of works by the last of the great Italian painters, Gianbattista Tiepolo (1696-1770), distributed in several palaces and churches around town. Udine calls itself, in fact, la città di Tiepolo.

Commanding a view from the Alpine foothills to the Adriatic Sea, Udine stands on a mound that, according to legend, was erected so Attila the Hun could watch the burning of Aquileia, an important Roman center to the south. Although the legend is a bit dubious (Attila burned Aquileia about 500 years before the first historical mention of Udine), the view from Udine's castle across the alluvial plane down to the sea is impressive. In the Middle Ages Udine flourished, thanks to its favorable trade location and the right granted by the local patriarch to hold regular markets.