Trieste's Caffè Culture

Trieste is justly famous for its coffee. The elegant civility of Trieste plays out beautifully in a caffè culture combining the refinement of Vienna with the passion of Italy. In Trieste, as elsewhere in Italy, ask for a caffè and you'll get a thimbleful of high-octane espresso. Your cappuccino here will also come in an espresso cup, with only half as much frothy milk as you'll find elsewhere and, in the Viennese fashion, a dollop of whipped cream. Many cafés are part of a torrefazione (roasting shop), so you can sample a cup and then buy beans to take with you.

Antico Caffè San Marco. Few cafés in Italy can rival Antico Caffè San Marco for its bohemian atmosphere. After being destroyed in World War I, it was rebuilt in the 1920s, and then restored several more times, but some of the original art nouveau decor remains. It became a meeting place for local intellectuals and was the haunt of the Triestino writers Italo Svevo and Umberto Saba. Via Battisti 18, Trieste, 34125. 040/363538. Closed Mon.

Caffè Tommaseo. Founded in 1830, classic Caffè Tommaseo is a comfortable place to linger, especially on weekend evenings and Sunday (11-1:30), when there's live music. It's open daily until 12:30 am. Piazza Tommaseo 4/C, Trieste, 34121. 040/362666.

Cremcaffè. Cremcaffè isn't the ideal place to sit and read the paper, but its downtown location and selection of 20 coffee blends make it one of the busiest cafés in town. Piazza Carlo Goldoni 10, Trieste, 34122. 040/636555. Closed Sun.

I Paesi del Caffè. The atmosphere is more modern than Old World at I Paesi del Caffè, which brews coffee and sells beans of most of the top varieties, including Jamaica Blue Mountain. Via Einaudi 1, Trieste, 34123. 040/633897. Closed Sun.