Just off Via Toledo, Ciro has been an obligatory entry on any list of Neapolitan cooking (as opposed to cuisine) since 1932, when Toscanini and Pirandello used to eat here. Popular with business travelers, artists, and journalists, Ciro is famous for a variety of favorites, with an emphasis on rustic food, from very fine pizzas and justly famed versions of pasta e fagioli to the classic sartù—rice loaf first concocted by baroque-era nuns—and the splendid
pignatiello e vavella, shellfish soup. The menu, which includes gluten-free items, looks too large for all its items to be good, but the owners must be doing something right, as the place is often packed with Neapolitan regulars. The old waiters are darling wherever you sit, but try to get a table upstairs, which has a more pleasant atmosphere.