Patrons of this Neapolitan institution have included the filmmaker Federico Fellini and that true-Neapolitan comic genius and aristocrat, Totò. Mimì cheerfully lives up to its history, serving fine versions of everything from pasta e fagioli (with beans) to the sea bass al presidente, baked in a pastry crust and enjoyed by any number of visiting Italian presidents. The owner's son Salvatore is the new chef, working wonders in the kitchen. This is not so
much a see-and-be-seen place as common ground for the famous and the unknown to mingle, feast, and be of good cheer. Given the fairly seedy neighborhood, travel here and back by taxi, especially at night.