The late RW Apple, the New York Times' famous traveling epicure, once declared Don Alfonso the best restaurant in Italy, and it remains a gastronomic giant. The restaurant, a sort of southern Italian Chez Panisse—pioneer in upscale farm-to-table cuisine—grows all its own produce on a small farm nearby. The operation is a family affair, with mama (Livia) in the dining room and papa (former chef Alfonso Iaccarrino) these days tending to the organic plot. And now
their sons have moved into the business—one as head chef, the other maitre'd. The menu reflects this generational shift, with classic dishes listed beside more edgy inventions. Delicate cheese ravioli topped with a ragu of house-grown tomatoes, might give way to more contemporary fare like fried lobster nuggets or sea urchin ice cream with rose fettuccine.