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All roads may indeed lead to Rome, but for thousands of years emperors, popes, and princes have been heading fuori porta (beyond the gates) for a change of pace from city life. To the west lies ancient Ostia Antica; as you work your way north you encounter lava-rich Tuscia, with its Renaissance gardens. East of Rome is Tivoli, famed for retreats ranging from the noble—the Villa d'Este—to the imperial—Villa Adriana (Hadrian's Villa). South lie the enchanting towns of the Castelli Romani.
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