Viterbo's oldest restaurant—and one of the most ancient in Italy—has been operating in the centro storico (historic center) since 1622. The kitchen focuses on traditional local dishes, such as zuppa ceci e castagne (chickpea and chestnut soup), and roasted porcini mushrooms. The wine list serves some great Italian wines. The small, wood-paneled dining room, chummily packed with tables, was a favorite haunt of movie director Federico Fellini and, before
that, of British and American soldiers during World War II. Local diners make a point of touching the old inn sign of the "Three Kings," now hanging inside, as this is supposed to bring good luck. It can get very busy at lunch, so reservations are a good idea.