One of most refined restaurants in the Castelli Romani has been in the same family since 1882. The present generation—Aurelio Mariani, his Australian wife, Jane, and their four sons—has lovingly restored this old railway inn perched high above Lake Albano. The dining-room windows open onto a breathtaking view across Lake Albano to the conical peak of Monte Cavo. In winter a log fire blazes in a corner; in summer you can dine on the flower-filled terrace. Many of the dishes are prepared with produce from the family's own farm. The wine cellar, carved out of the local tufa rock, boasts more than 3,000 labels.