At this traditional restaurant near the main piazza, you can sit out on the tree-lined patio or in the white-walled dining room and munch on free panelle (chickpea fritters), which are delicate and judiciously seasoned. Follow them up with citrusy sarde a beccafico (sardines, arranged in the shape of a bird) and exemplary ravioli in cuttlefish ink. Or order the seafood couscous—it's served with a bowl of fish broth on the side so you can add as much as
you wish. A charming touch: all dishes are served table-side, spooned directly from the cooking pots to your plate by the friendly waitstaff. Be sure to peruse the extensive wine list, which offers interesting choices and good values from local wineries.